Day two in Seoul was an all day tour of the DMZ. It started with a pick up at the hotel followed by an hour-long long drive north to the boarder. As we got close, there were several security checkpoints where everyone on the bus had to present their passports and have their identity verified. We were told that photos would be limited from here on. At the final checkpoint armed military personnel boarded the bus and escorted us to a building in the Joint Security Area where we went into an auditorium and were given a briefing. 
During the briefing we were given a short history of the area, as well as told what to do should any sort of hostile incident take place (just about 2 months ago a North Korean soldier was shot several times here while trying to defect, that was at the building to the far left in the panoramic photo). Then we were asked by the military guide if we had any intention of defecting to North Korea today during our visit (it was no joke, he was quite serious).
The briefing wrapped up with the signing of a release that basically said if we were killed during an incident at the border today the military was not responsible.
From there it was back on the bus and through a final checkpoint which led into the actual four kilometer wide demilitarized zone. The entire area is heavily mined and it’s obvious that nobody is ever in the area except for on the road. When we arrived we we’re escorted off of the bus and into the building that straddles North and South Korea (the sound of North Korean propaganda playing on loud speakers in the background). On one side of the room you are in the South, and on the other you are in the North. By walking to the far side of the room you are actually in North Korea so now technically I can say I’ve been there. :).
After the tour to the Joint Security Area we visited several other sites. This included the “Third Tunnel” (a tunnel dug by North Korea to invade the South), an observation post, and a train station to nowhere that is ready to be put to use should the two Korea every unify again. Pictures were allowed in some places, but not in others. From here you can see North Korea to the left, including what we were told is a completely fake village (windows on buildings are just painted on) built by the North to create the perception of prosperity). After a day of this you started to wonder what was real and what was not because of all the propaganda coming from both sides. 
During the drive home I noticed that along the river for probably 20 miles south (very far from the border) there were security fences and manned guard stations every thousand or so feet. I asked the guide why this was the case so far into South Korea and he said they are there to protect against North Korean spies who might use the river as a way to travel south and sneak in. 
Overall this tour was amazing. Not something I could have ever appreciated just by reading about it. On the one hand it’s a deadly serious place with defectors being shot right there if they attempt to leave the North, but on the other hand there are constant reminders of how comically ridiculous both sides are in their showmanship and trying to one up each other (for example South Korea built a beautiful and lavish building at the border to be used for family reunifications, though it is never used. And as soon as they did, North Korea realized this new building was slightly taller than their building and threw a third story so it would not be bested).
After the tour ended I had the evening to explore the local neighborhood. I had some Korean BBQ and then headed back for an early night and a 5:00am departure to the airport to head out for China!
